{"id":155,"date":"2020-04-14T08:40:28","date_gmt":"2020-04-14T08:40:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/anniekcreates.com\/?p=155"},"modified":"2022-06-12T14:28:56","modified_gmt":"2022-06-12T14:28:56","slug":"slanted-corset-pt-1-pattern-drafting","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"http:\/\/3.10.221.167\/?p=155","title":{"rendered":"Slanted Corset Pt.1 (pattern drafting)"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Ever since the Insect Wing<\/a> corset I’ve been kind of obsessed with modifying a corset pattern to make a design out of different fabric sections. So this is round 2 of me making life harder for myself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step 1: The Design<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Drawing was never my forte.<\/figcaption><\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n\n

After sketching a few ideas involving complicated patterns of stripes and weird angular edges I actually settled on something simpler. Four or five slanted sections layered horizontally. I initially intended to use a dragon-print fabric for some of the parts (that’s what the scraggly lines are, don’t judge my drawing abilities). But after having another look at the fabric the fit did not seem great for this design. And I’d always wanted to work with mesh, so this was the perfect excuse. Replace dragons with mesh, replace the other sections with… oh hey I have some beautiful faux leather left over from my bag project *cough* which I swear I will finish some time this millenium *cough*. And also since clothes with lights in them are better than clothes without lights in them and I have some electroluminescent(EL) wire lying around ‘in case I need it’, let’s run a light-up trim along the horizontal lines. I saw some tutorials in which they hand-stitch it down but that seems like a nightmare, so I think I’ll sew it into some translucent or netted fabric and then sew that in as a trim. No idea if it will work. It’s a first time for a lot of things.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Step 2: A normal pattern<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

I started out making a fresh normal corset pattern. Partially because I figured that by reducing the number of panels from 6 to 5 per side (compared to the previous project) would be easier, and because I wanted to fine-tune my method of adapting historical patterns to my own size. I based it on a victorian pattern in Norah Waugh’s Corsets and Crinolines<\/em>. I opened a scan of the page on my computer to more easily draw on it and measure in pixels rather than holding my ruler up to the page. I marked the bust, waist and hip line and basically calculated what portion of each of those measurements was in each half of each pattern piece. This captures the general shape of the pieces. I then used those proportions to scale it to my own measurements. This is not an exact science because all bodies are different. For example you are scaling a pattern that was originally meant for a lady with a large chest, a lot of the bust measurement will end up on the panels that are in the front of the corset, while on a skinnier person the total measurement would be more evenly distributed. So after doing the math I moved a few seam lines to make a more sensible pattern.<\/p>\n\n\n\n